Just installed a 1.25 body lift and bombproof motor mounts. Install went pretty easy on both, even with my limited experience.

I also have a 3" suspension lift. With a skid plate drop. Think it's 2 inches.. need to measure.

I fired it up to take it around the block and I had no reverse..well almost none. In my manual transmission, I can't shift into 2nd gear at all, and 4th/Reverse are difficult.

Question is - does this happen as you lift a jeep because of the change in transmission height? If so, can I just fix it by taking out the skid drop now that I have a 1" motor lift? Or do I have a more serious problem on my hands?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: dkr,

Sounds like the shifting problems are because of the new body lift. My brother had similar problems before. It should be easily fixed like you suggested, remove the t-case drop.

Could it be a physical problem? I mean when you did the xfer case drop did the xfer case and trans get move more towards the fron of the Jeep or more to the rear?

When I did my first lift I couldn't get my xfer case into 4 low. I moved the xfer case forward a little and it fixed the problem.

Now I've lifted 7.5" over stock height and I can't get my Jeep into 2wheel drive, it will only go 4hi or neutral not 2 or 4lo. I'm sure it needs to be adjusted again.

Looking under it, I've found that my transmission has moved further to the back of the jeep following the motor mount lift and the body lift has made my stick shorter. When I shift down to 2nd and watch it, it's hitting the area the tub.

Right now, if my front driveshaft is nearly straight, and my rear is exactly straight. If I take out the tcase drop out, I'll have major driveline vibes, right?

What's the best way to fix that? I thought about grinding out more room in the tub but I want a good fix, not a temp one. Is there some other way to adjust the linkage?

quote:

Originally posted by dkr:
What's the best way to fix that? I thought about grinding out more room in the tub but I want a good fix, not a temp one. Is there some other way to adjust the linkage?

get the bracket that takes the linkage off of the body tub
AA part# 715542

I've got the tcase shifting bracket, it's the tranny linkage I'm needing help with.

I think I fixed it though, took my skid plate drop spacer out. More driveline vibration now, but I can shift again. Has anyone done this and will it cause any problems I'm not thinkin about?

SYE is next for me, but it may be a few months.

your driveshaft ujoints will probably crap out earlier.
Sorry for misreading your post in the first place , but probably what happened is that the shifter is hitting the tub.
There are several fixes:
- bend the shifter (forward, but not too far otherwise you'll hit the dash/ashtray)
- remove the foam padding around the shifter (underneath the rubber cover). That's what did it for me
- notch the tub where the shifter hits
- combination of the above

HTH a little bit more than my first reply

It's okay, you've probably seen the post for the t case a million times.

I'm okay with the u joints wearing out earlier if they can just make it another few months till i get my tom woods in. then i'll have some decent clearance and be on my way to a real !!

Thanks for the help!!

BTW: did you do a MML with those new mounts?

sure did!

or maybe just add a few washers to the Tcase skid, so it takes away the vibration in the driveline, but doesn't mess up your tranny shifter

That was my next thought. If I buy the SYE now with the shaft, am I going to have to buy a new drive shaft when I put the belly up on?

quote:

Originally posted by dkr:
That was my next thought. If I buy the SYE now with the shaft, am I going to have to buy a new drive shaft when I put the belly up on?

just ask Tom Wood for the long spline version and you should be fine
That's what I did with the front driveshaft I ordered earlier this week (only 30 bucks extra) and there's not that much travel on the driveshaft anyways

What rear end do you have now? On mine when I did the belly up, I also switched from the Dana35 (kaboom) to a Dana44 so that compensated a little since the Dana44 snout (pinion) is longer than the Dana35.
And it's still better to lengthen the distance than to shorten it (possibility of pushing the ds into the Tcase output)

HTH

I did the SYE with Tom Woods driveshaft on my Dana 35. When I put my 44 in, it was to long so I went with the super shorty SYE which put everything almost exactly back where it was in relation to DS length. It's about $50 more, but I'd recommend the super shorty to give you more room for future mods. It's about $60-70 bucks to get a DS lengthened or shortened at a local shop or you can send it back to Tom Woods for about the same cost.

HTH,
Mark

Well, I hadn't planned on doing anymore mods until I'm ready to regear and then I was thinking about going to a Ford 9". I know nothing of a 9" now, but I will before I'm ready, do either of you know what I should expect there? I'm just trying to avoid buying 2+ driveshafts. I guess the option to lengthen/shorten is always there if I absolutely have to.

just get the driveshaft now and be ready to play
Indeed if you have the choice still -> get the Supershorty = more driveshaft length = good

If I'm not mistaken those 9" axles work with a flange as compared to the ujoint set up on Jeeps, but somebody correct me if I'm wrong

I think I will!

Do you know what the stock driveshaft angle is?

You can get 9" built with flange or yoke, one additional thing needed for the JB conversions super shorty is an electronic speedo correction unit. There's two or three to choose from, I went with Dakota Digital for about $80 shipped. Depending on tire size and gearing, the super shorty will be close, it's set for 31's and 4.11 gears if I recall correctly.

HTH,
Mark

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Squid in a Jeep,

Well the motor mount lift and body lift has been done for a week and a half. I took the skid drop completely out so I could shift. When I went into the garage tonight, something is dripping onto my transmission. It looks/smells/feels like water but it's dripping pretty steady and appears to be dripping from above, onto the tranny, and down only on the passenger side.

I'm could have put stress on it when I raised the skid plate. When I did the lifts, I was VERY careful to support the tranny well. I dropped the skid tonight (only a half inch) to see if that helped. I did that to be safe, because it's not typical red tranny fluid.

Has anyone seen this before?

Help!!

This message has been edited. Last edited by: dkr,

I think I jumped out a little quick on this one, appears to have just been water that was pooled up and then overflowed. So I'm good there.

Just as an update, I'm getting the SYE and shaft in the next couple of weeks. On a scale between 1 to 10, how difficult would you all say doing a SYE (Not hackntap) is for someone who has done things like header install, suspension lift, body lift, motor mount lift, etc, but really no trans/t case experience?

Thanks!