Hi guys i'm new in here

yesterday i just got a new LR3 Rockcrawler like this one.

is there anything i should know? Have tested it for just 15min so far before battery running flat, but from what i saw it seems not very heavy duty as is in standard for. Links to springs are all plastic. Do they break easily? Steering is not very responsive from standstill but i had heard already about this thing due to underpowered servo apperently. What can i mod without going to extremes in it?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Adrian S3109,

I had some time to test drive it further more and i'm already on 4th battery charge. I'm getting the hangs of it and i'm pretty happy overall. Tyres scrub wheel arches on full lock but i'm not chopping anything for now. Had a quick look on mods done here on forum. I would love to make springs softer but leaving them where they are. Is that possible? I just want a softer ride not more articulation. Right now if a front wheel goes on an obstacle the other side lifts as well sometimes instead of going down even though it can.

you would probably have to do some research on the site like most ofus do, but if you want a softer ride the cheapest way is to cut the coils about 3/8 the way down and stretch them back to ride height. will improve the softness dramatically.

Hi there I too am new Tell me what do u think of this?

Hello fellow NB owners! I bought my grey one last week and started taking it apart while the stock battery was charging. When I saw the detail of the body and lenses I had to have it. MY GOAL: increase performance with minimal cost, keep the stock "just a toy" look and i have way too much left over RC stuff!
MODS: (I apologize to rockcrawler.com for taking off the body sticker-didn't realize they had a hand in getting this together)-oops
1. A Great body needs great lights - bought on Ebay from board member here -silverhawk25- $9 great deal- 2 red 2 yellow 2 white - wired directly to PCB to utilize stock on/off switch. added quick connects to remove body completely from chassis if needed.
2. LEFTOVER RC battery packs - soldered 8 2000mah sub-C cells (9.6v but 4 times the run time) together with tamiya connector to utilize battery compartment plug-in. dremeled a little to get 14guage wire thru. weighted the pack toward front to simulate engine weight and zip tied to chassis. can still use the stock battery.
3. Secured antenna inside body and away from new battery.
4. LEFTOVER TMAXX shocks. The stock tmaxx shocks just plain suck for their intended use. They are perfect for the NB, and are just a little longer. Used 30 wt full synthetic oil with stock blue springs. Mounted in the stock chassis position (for now). Inverted like stock - lower mounts drilled in to accept self tapping screws. Top mounts dremeled a little wider to allow longer shock shaft to touch the hood under compression- upper shaft eyelet has nut and bolt to keep from falling thru mount. Stock tmaxx springs way softer than NB, but hold upper mount in place when weighted - and allow full droop for articulation. Each spring was compressed with 2zip ties to correct ride height.
5. The extra travel caused the wheelbase to change a lot under power. Linkage set up used 4-40 threaded rod ($2) and open ball end mounts. Mounted just inside of lower shock point X4(used screws about same size as body screw with washer) and connected to chassis with nut/washer/bolt - high up enuf where there is a gap to reach and hold the bolt with small pliers.
6. Steering - I'm trying to avoid changing whatever is in there for now. On close inspection the plastic seems to block some of the travel. I dremeled some of the uprights and the tie rod mounts. - NOT TOO much, if you increase the travel too far the steering servo will unmount itself from the center link.
7. Drilled x3 5mm holes in the wheels.
8. Dremeled plastic plate with 5 screws at bottom of chassis to improve articulation.
9. I haven't opened the axles, yet. I read flapding has modded those to double down the gear ratio - that would be cool.

More to come...

Sorry about my sub-standard camera phone picture of my LR3...will post better ones soon.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Spawn,

8 cells total. 6 laid flat. #7 on top between 5/6 and #8 below and opposite 7. center of chassis. zipped tied in place

Battery connector passed through chassis. Cover still fits for stock appearance. Pack is charged while in car. I may move it to facilitate charging and lower the CG.

A set of silverhawk25's LEDs wired as described earlier. I cut off the 9volt adapter and soldered to PCB main neg, and on/off switch positive.

LED's drilled through body and hotglued in place. Zap straps to compress springs to lower ride height. Note how shock shaft passes through upper mount to hood increasing travel. I could gain more travel if the body wasn't in the way.(AKA pre-runner shocks with suspension visible in the truck bed) BTW - cutting a spring doesn't change the stiffness (rate). It only lowers the ride height (preload).

Front end droop. End of shock shaft has a nut/bolt to keep it from falling thru. No choice but to cut body to clear extra travel.

ok last one. Rear LEDS. Had to do a little body cutting in the rear as well. Fairly cheap and simple mods made a big difference from the stock truck. I think Flapding has a mod for shocks as well.Thanks to Adrian S3109 for the stock pix on lego blocks. I dug out the lego as soon as I saw it. For the price it makes for a great indoor crawler. I'd be happy to answer questions if someone is wondering about something.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Spawn,

Pretty good. Tell me fellow Spawn can you send me some pics of the axlemodiffications that you made, i'm trying to change the coils and shock from my disco 3 but i have a problem with the fixation of the axle to the chassis, i don't known how to do it.
Sorry for my english
ricardojbatista@gmail.com

Ricardo Batista
Portugal

RB, I didn't do any actual mods to the axles themselves. Coil over oil shocks and traction linkage with a little bit of dremel work to free things up. You can kind of see some of it in the above pictures. I have not cut up the plastic supports from axles to chassis, yet.
I will post on lid off picture in the modification forum soon.
BTW, your english is way better than my portugese!

Yesterday started my first little mods on my LR3. Drilled rims and removed that extra tread on tyre sidewalls to make them softer. Now i'm searching for some softer coils...dont like the idea of cutting 3 rings from originals and stretching them to length.

hello Adrian S3109, try to mount some yellows coils buggy type with 90mm more ou less, mine works just fine i'll post some pics to see

Here some pics

Nice one, I hope I can get one in Black