well was looking at more ideas for the problem hexes on the 1/6 .now this is from a tamiya a conversion from pin to hex but it is a interesting http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=76273 idea ,check it out ,......

This message has been edited. Last edited by: not a toy,

quote:

Originally posted by not a toy:
well was looking at more ideas for the problem hexes on the 1/6 .now this is from a tamiya a conversion from pin to hex but it is a interesting http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=76273 idea ,check it out ,......

Were there is a will, there is a way.

Notice that frame is all steel? Wander if that is a one off or company made .

yes very true m8 were theres a will. it looks to be a custom job with the steel chassie lots of this stuff about in the tamiya sections .

quote:

Originally posted by not a toy:
yes very true m8 were theres a will. it looks to be a custom job with the steel chassie lots of this stuff about in the tamiya sections .

One day Ill start buying some old tamiya R/Cs like my old Hornet and Monster beetle.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkZf0dBwHTM&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6IV6wV372Y

wayne it makes me laugh looking at those old tamiya vids ,you can tell there from the 70s and 80s so corny now .lol.but i wish i had those models now ,worth a fortune ,the first car i had was the the frog much the same style as the hornet .my love of these models is still very strong .always very well made .although i only have two tamiya models now i do treasure them .i have seen the tamiya hilux go for big bucks on ebay .£500 out of my league now .but one day who knows ,

quote:

Originally posted by not a toy:
wayne it makes me laugh looking at those old tamiya vids ,you can tell there from the 70s and 80s so corny now .lol.but i wish i had those models now ,worth a fortune ,the first car i had was the the frog much the same style as the hornet .my love of these models is still very strong .always very well made .although i only have two tamiya models now i do treasure them .i have seen the tamiya hilux go for big bucks on ebay .£500 out of my league now .but one day who knows ,

Very much true. At the time I did not have the money for the frog and buy the hole Radio / charger setup I wanted, so I bought the Hornet.

My next perches from tamiya was the Monster beetle, So I kinda got my frog anyway .

Really I should start putting money away and buy a hornet ASAMFP. When the stock of them is back around, they sold them fast over here. Tamiya Reissued the hornet and this might be my only real chance to get a new one at a reasonable price, even if it sits on a shelf. Frog and brat or brat I would need to build a monster beetle. With the way the old kits are selling hopefully they reissue
the monster beetle.

ahh the monster beetle Did you have to do the weekly trip to the LHS for hex shafts or was that poor workmanship on my part. It seemd every time I did a roll back wheelie the weight of the beetle would strip the shaft.
One of my mates bought that from me for next to nix and he still has it in original condition back in australia. He is currently looking for a hilux for me over there too

They are rare as rocking horse sh#t for a good one at a real price. There was a guy on rcuniverse last week selling three!!! Nice builds too.

quote:

Originally posted by j33p3r:
ahh the monster beetle Did you have to do the weekly trip to the LHS for hex shafts or was that poor workmanship on my part. It seemd every time I did a roll back wheelie the weight of the beetle would strip the shaft.
One of my mates bought that from me for next to nix and he still has it in original condition back in australia. He is currently looking for a hilux for me over there too

They are rare as rocking horse sh#t for a good one at a real price. There was a guy on rcuniverse last week selling three!!! Nice builds too.

No problems with the drivetrain on mine. My friend had a brat before I got my monster beetle so we knew about the gear box separating and cousin problems. Cant even remember what we did to solve the problem. I did buy a few chassis because of roll overs and screws striping out the rear mounts from them getting pulled on, After buying a few chassis I looked at the grey chassis and it looked like a different material. After using the grey chassis and stiffening the rear mounting bracket took care of the problem. My Hornet was the one that was killing me on gears and broking gear box covers.

hi wayne bit of the topic here bear with me ,i have been thinking about turning my tl-01 into a drift car since it is a touring car chassis makes sense the diff (rear) is locked .it has been used as a monster truck since i bought it from new but now i have a yearning ,to learn to drift .been reading up about them and apparently they make great drift cars ,thing is i need drift wheels and tiers ,i like the deep dish look .any ideas ..also whant to do this mod to it lights and all ,i have a good transam firebird body with lots of bling it already has the leds in the headlights and tail lights iam gonig to apply this mod from you tube .you can pick these up from the doller store bike lights just going to use the flasher circuit board .this would also be a good mod for the newbrights the lights i mean easy to do and cheap ..... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CobhY78bHZ8

quote:

Originally posted by not a toy:
hi wayne bit of the topic here bear with me ,i have been thinking about turning my tl-01 into a drift car since it is a touring car chassis makes sense the diff (rear) is locked .it has been used as a monster truck since i bought it from new but now i have a yearning ,to learn to drift .been reading up about them and apparently they make great drift cars ,thing is i need drift wheels and tiers ,i like the deep dish look .any ideas ..also whant to do this mod to it lights and all ,i have a good transam firebird body with lots of bling it already has the leds in the headlights and tail lights iam gonig to apply this mod from you tube .you can pick these up from the doller store bike lights just going to use the flasher circuit board .this would also be a good mod for the newbrights the lights i mean easy to do and cheap ..... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CobhY78bHZ8

If you have been reading up on driffting you probably know more then I do about it. I have never really looked into it. All I know is you use awd touring cars and plastic tires and hard tires to get them to loose traction. As for the deep dish wheels/offset, I would think that would depend on the body used to keep them tucked inside the wheel wells.

thanks m8 never give the wheel wells a thought must check that , ohh me and you in the pub car park m8 .lol...... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-Uk2KJ7_3o&NR=1

quote:

Originally posted by not a toy:
thanks m8 never give the wheel wells a thought must check that , ohh me and you in the pub car park m8 .lol...... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-Uk2KJ7_3o&NR=1

I would not even know what body to use LOL..
Like this one,,, can not understand a single word he is saying so don't ask me,, LOL.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLWq2ujO2aw&feature=related

I do have this chassis laying around





Carbin fiber chassis

umm, you will not want all wheel drive for drifting. Rear wheels only. They bias the brakes massively to the front for controlling the slide. So you can give it a flick and tromp it to get the wheels to break free then with different amounts of spaghetti arm work and front biased braking you can drive your car around the track with the arse end hanging out.

Great to watch, they do it on infield track at the track here near me. Road America in elkhart lake, WI.
Usually a high powered jap chariot. miata turbo is the best one I have seen 1:1. the BMW and silvia/200sx whatever they are called here in usa looked too heavy so they hook up at bad times ie mid turn Like I said, great to watch in 1:1 just make sure you have lots of tires and lots of spare body panels

So an RC one would just be the same. I am not sure how you would control the resistance on the front end. If you rely on the rear spinning for drifting, it is only a matter of time before you are trying to drive a sliding car going full berries!!
You lose points if you gain full traction.

wayne you got yourself a drift chassie there .looks tough as hell to . bodys well any touring car body will do the one iam going to use is from a nikko trans amm i posted about it before .it was just a toy car ,had it a while now but the electronics gave up so i salvaged the bodie .iam not suprised you dont understand those guys my japaneese is a bit rusty to lol. jeff from my understand r/c drift cars need to be 4 wheel drive i know in the real drifting they use rear wheel drive but every thing i have been reading about these r/c cars says the must be 4 wheel drive and the rear diff needs to be lockd............ http://www.rccartips.com/RC_Drifting.htm

This message has been edited. Last edited by: not a toy,

quote:

Originally posted by j33p3r:
umm, you will not want all wheel drive for drifting. Rear wheels only. They bias the brakes massively to the front for controlling the slide. So you can give it a flick and tromp it to get the wheels to break free then with different amounts of spaghetti arm work and front biased braking you can drive your car around the track with the arse end hanging out.

Great to watch, they do it on infield track at the track here near me. Road America in elkhart lake, WI.
Usually a high powered jap chariot. miata turbo is the best one I have seen 1:1. the BMW and silvia/200sx whatever they are called here in usa looked too heavy so they hook up at bad times ie mid turn Like I said, great to watch in 1:1 just make sure you have lots of tires and lots of spare body panels

So an RC one would just be the same. I am not sure how you would control the resistance on the front end. If you rely on the rear spinning for drifting, it is only a matter of time before you are trying to drive a sliding car going full berries!!
You lose points if you gain full traction.

You really want awd for an rc to control it.
Rear wheel drive would just spin around its axis to easy.

HPI and Yokomo cars are awd
http://www.yokomousa.com/index.html
http://www.hpiracing.com/home/

You can drift a 1:1 AWD I'm not sure if rules allow them or their in another class to their selves . My kid has a 240Sx thats the silvia over here. My brother had a WRX.
I could control my brothers car in a drift better then my kids car.

All wheel drive you air the tires up to keep them spinning. Their not a 50/50 split front to back like most people think they are. If I recall right my brothers was 45% front 55% rear.

quote:

Originally posted by not a toy:
wayne you got yourself a drift chassie there .looks tough as hell to . bodys well any touring car body will do the one iam going to use is from a nikko trans amm i posted about it before .it was just a toy car ,had it a while now but the electronics gave up so i salvaged the bodie .iam not suprised you dont understand those guys my japaneese is a bit rusty to lol. jeff from my understand r/c drift cars need to be 4 wheel drive i know in the real drifting they use rear wheel drive but every thing i have been reading about these r/c cars says the must be 4 wheel drive and the rear diff needs to be lockd............ http://www.rccartips.com/RC_Drifting.htm

That site is pretty good.

I found a few to will check them out.
http://www.drccentral.com/

As for a body If I was to do it. I would try and find the 2000 Cobra R that is pretty close to my car. My car has a 2000 cobra R front end on it.
Just not the splitter or the rear wing. Other then a Mustang it would have to be a ford like the ford GT, Saleen S7R, Or a Nissan.

I dropped my chassis down to about 1/2 inch ground clearance. L8r if I have the time Ill install the motor and searing servo. Then I will make a thread in the other rc forum. I set it up that all I have to do is change the ball ends for the shocks and
take spacers out to go from rally hight to road course.

RX and ESC will have to wait awile for till traxxes gets crystal set in. My crystal set I need
for Rustler is back ordered, All I need is a TX
crystal to get the rustler up. So I can use the other rx for this build. I'm going to run My
TQ3 on all my cars but the Losi Micro D/T.

Ill get a 3 channel RX for this so I can use 3rd channel for Lights or smoke. Then think Ill look into a ESC that has a programmable brake.

I have a 75ft by 10ft tar Driveway I can setup
for a course. For out side play with the little one she has 1inch chalk sticks. So just tape to a broom handle to out line a track LOL.
All I can find around is white pvc no abs rrrr.
So might have to buy actual drift tires will have to check My LHS. My rims should be ok maybe just paint them depending on body style and paint job for now. Will have to search the crap out of web see if I can find a dealer with the old 00 cobra R body.

So soon as i Make a thread we can take this to the other RC forum here to discuss cars etc. My
suspension is adjustable to chassis setup should be fine.

Motor will be a Tamiya RX-540SD Technipower so I can change the timming etc. Thanks to Cobra98
or gave me the motor I researched the motor It is 23 turns. Should be enough tq to spin the tires and not to crazy of turns, to eat battery life I would think.

ahh i new i would get you into this right up our street m8 now how can we meet up and drift lol. wayne that link you gave me i carnt stop reading it .its great . so much imformation iam looking at making a big bore muffler amongst other things all from that site . ohh i have some brand new rush evo wheels they fit the tl-01 and the trans amm body just need tiers they have a deep ofset and look kinda cool on the car ...

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think i found my tiers wayne ....bit of work but hey all part of the fun...... http://www.drccentral.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3980