I have drilled 2 holes in each wheel and moved my front suspension in 1 inch. What should be my next step? I work in a welding and fab shop, can a make somethings out of alum? I'm new and basic to some of you, so help!

This message has been edited. Last edited by: ilovemetal,

read the '4 link rear..stock parts' thread.. all you need to know is there.

-Scerb

...And then some. This forum provides a plethora of info for everything from a 2-minute body lift to extreme articulation. Take an hour, read all the postings, and then decide what you wanna do. Maybe even homebrew-engineer your own unique system. Enjoy!

speaking of doing a body lift...this is what I did:
I used vacuum hose that I had laying around (it's a jeep thing you know ) and cut it to length and I used longer 4-40 machine screws.
Nice thing about the vacuum hose is it's black and you don't even notice it.
I dremeled out the "frame" for more upward movement of the axles and removed the top spring spacers.
I now get 3" with this modified jeep compared to our stock jeep of 1.5" articulation. That's measured with both axles flexed and the body level. I could get more but I need to either remove the flares or add more body lift.
I tried moving the shocks inward but didn't like the way it binds.
What I'd like to do next is come up with some long arms to keep the axles from moving fore and aft when climbing. Also some time I'd like to look into locking both axles. Right now that power goes to the one with the least amount of resistance.
The steering could use some help. I'd be interesting in seeing what others come up with.
Other then that I'm very happy with these for the money.

Has anyone tried moving that mounting point of the shocks out an inch on the axles?

The diffs are locked and each axle has its own motor, there is no link between the two. If one axle doesn't spin, that means you don't have enough power to turn the motor.

As for bdoy lift, I'm actualy thinking of lowering the body for a lower center of gravity. I currently have no lift and this is about 1-2 inches below my tip point:


-Scerb

i put some traction bars in first thing

Your traction bars look good. What did you use? Where did you put them exactly?
Thanks,
Craig

Longer shock screws work awsome. #8x3". Tons more droop, it's amazing. And you dont have to hack up the body more, because so you still have the same amount of compression. I want to keep the body as close to stock as i can. Just make sure you put a limiting strap on to keep the axle from wrapping under. And twist tie the top of the spring to where it sits on the chassis to keep it from floping around. I have 10" of hight before any other tire lifts. GREASE every moving suspension part that was another thing that made a huge improvement.