Hi all. Been lurking a while and figured I`d say hi and post up some pics of my Crawler. The Beadlocks, bumpers are Aluminum and are my own work, as is the paint. And yup, its real Goldleaf. I`ve got the usual suspension mods right now but will be building a real 4 link setup with real shocks soon, I may build a tube chassis as well if I get ambitious enough. Gonna do a regear with some hotter motors as well, Im finding the stock gearing and motors cant keep up to the added flexibility. Anyway, I got a few pics, enjoy.
Thanks Lou Lou. I`m looking forward to seeing how it works with a real 4 link setup and proper shocks. I saw some high dollar RC crawlers in action a few weeks ago and they were pretty impressive. I think with a few properly done mods the New Bright could hold its own.
What kind of mods have you done for your steering? Thats a huge weak spot on these rigs and I havent seen many ideas for improvement.
Thanks guys. I`ve got it torn apart right now and am building the 4 link setup. I`ve got a plan for improving the steering while using the stock steering servo. Its just a theory, If it works I`ll post up some pics of what I did. If it doesnt...I`ll just get drunk.
Nice vids LouLou. I like the speed of the Yellow Crawler. My goal is a super torquey, slow moving crawler with a smooth flexing suspension. I`m going to do a gearing mod like you have in Yellow and am thinking of using the Speed280 Motors. Whats your opinion on that? What motors do you have in Yellow?
Got the 4 link setup finished last night. The articulation is slightly more than it was with the previous susp, but everything moves a lot smoother with no clunkiness or binding. I extended the wheelbase an inch on either end which and will set the shocks up so that the ride height is a little lower. Even with the stock gearing and motors its crawls a lot nicer with the 4 link. The shocks are still a big limiter in how everything moves. A nice long travel Oil filled set with some really soft springs are gonna be a great addition. Next move is to do a regear ala LouLou`s 120/1 gearset with some Jameco Motors, put some real shocks on and then try I few ideas I have in mind for some stronger steering.
I just finished LouLou`s 34/10 gear mod with a bit lower gearing. I managed to find a set of 36/10 gears in an old Caterpillar excavator along with 8 tooth pinions. I took it for its maiden crawl the other night and couldnt believe the difference. It will go over and up anything in its way. I have to give some big Kudos to Lou Lou for coming up with this mod. What an ingenious plan!. I was planning on putting a set of Jamecos 19160`s in, but with the new gearing I`m pretty happy with the stock motors so I think I`ll stick with them ....for now .
I still need to put better shocks on it. The movement of the modified stockers doesnt do justice to the rest of the rig. I`m leaning towards a set from Yeah racing. They go for $38 U.S. which is almost what I paid for the Jeep itself, but will be well worth it. I told a guy at a local Hobby shop what I was doing and he gave me the cool guy with a $1000 rig that knows everything look with an "ohhh yeah" thrown in. My goal is to run over his $1000 rig with my $100 rig. I did some steering mods which helped a bit, I think the best thing to do is put in a better servo like JJCALE did in his. I`ll post some steering mod pics soon. Heres a link to the shocks....http://www.jpcustomrcs.atomicshops.com/catalog/item/4457879/4462032.htm
Thanks guys. Its currently torn apart and awaiting its new frame and suspension. I`ve been just working on it when I`ve had time so it`s taking longer than I had planned, but its coming along nicely. I should be finished within a month. I`ll post up some pics when its done.
LR3, the links are pretty simple to build, it only took me a couple hours to do everything including the axle and frame mounts. I found a tech article on another site and built it as per the instructions. Its cheap and easy and makes a world of difference in how your machine moves....theres no comparison.
Thanks Hogg. I made it pretty but its no shelf Queen. Its been flipped, crunched and rolled many times. My motto when building bikes has always been "build it like a show queen and ride it like you stole it", guess that applies to my toys too.
The finish is just a spraycan of black wrinkle coat.
Geez LouLou, hope your going to be allright. Wishing you a speedy recovery, hope all goes well. Build another Crawler...its good for the heart .
Thnaks Marmech. I`ll be keeping the stock electrics, they are working well for me so I see no reason to change. I have added a new steering servo which makes a world of difference and will be putting new Motors in shortly. I was happy with the crawl speed and performance after doing Lou`s gearing mod but i Just want a bit more Torque. Then one thing led to another (as it usually does) and I found myself designing a new frame out of Aluminum with longer links and better geometry, Axle trusses, new tires on narrowed rims( 2.2 RC4WD Rockstompers), a real steering set-up and real shocks(110 mm Oil filled units by Yeah Racing). Now I just have to find the time to get the job done. I`ll try to post some pics in the next day or so of what ive got done so far.
If you`ve got a Great Canadian Superstore in your area they sell both the 1/10 FJ and LR3 for $50.
Finally got around to taking a few pics. These are the frame rails, theyre not finished yet, I still have to cut the design out of the middle, but it gives an idea of what it will look like.
I also built axle trusses for the front and rear. They`ll add some extra protection to the axle housings in case of any bad tumbles. They also serve as a mounting point for the upper links. I will also be adding mounts for the shocks and lower links, I think i`ll make them today. These shots also give a good shot of the improved steering.
I also figured a way to get more ground clearance on the diffs, which you can see in the last pic above. There is a lot of space etween the bottom of the axle gear, which is the lowest gear in the gearcase, and the bottom of the diff. I measured and found you can remove close to 1/2 inch from the bottom of the Diff. I removed enough to leave 2mm of clearance between the bottom of the gear and the floor of the diff and then made a plate out of aluminum to close up the hole. Its actually pretty simple to do and only took me a couple of hours, and you dont need to use Aluminum, Plastic will work just as well, and you will gain close to 1/2 inch of ground clearance.
A basic idea of what it will lool like when done. It will have a 14 inch wheelbase.