HELLO ..
This is just a cardboard model :-)

I begin to develop a model to make it more solid frame LAND ROVER ..

it will be made of aluminum and several screws held in the place ..

work (adjustment) is not completed, the two ends are identical .. I am convinced that this body will not break ..

low points (anchorages shocks) will study and repair ..

the dremel be very useful for cutting the aluminum plate ..

Then, the bumper will strengthens, especially the front ..
this is just the beginning ..

the rest will come with time ..

Here are a few pics.. THANK ..

This message has been edited. Last edited by: loulou,

WOW loulou this will do the job great if you can make this ladder frame from alaminium or steel .then fix to the plastic chassie .now why didnt i think of this .lol. you are a genius .

That's a great idea! So when you cut away the plastic for more flex the frame will still be strong. Nice work, can't wait to see the finished product!

THANK .. NAT .. Drnkirishm .. for your good comments ..

I prefer aluminum, it remains for me to find this plate .. I believe this system will make it stronger frame so fragile ..

do not be too hurry, be patient .. I have several adjustments to be done ..

THANK

loulou you are a genius. Thank you for your input, I am excited for your ideas!!

THANK .. J33P3R ..
I did not deserve the word (genius), but rather (resourceful .. maybe) ..

when I have a problem, always trying to find a solution .. sometimes it works, and other times it does not work ..

The aluminum plate will be 1/16 thick, 1/8 might be a little too thick ..I see on the spot (store) ..

I believe that a jig saw will do the work of cutting, a dremel help for small corner ..

Once completed this plate, sanded and painted black, there will be more than screwed firmly to the extentions blue and black frame ..

This plan on cardboard, is very coarse, I will make the transfer on cardboard, thinner, and make final adjustments before being transferred to the plate ..

PS ...

I took my information, and the price of this aluminum plate is about $ 12.00 .. very good price .. 1/16 or 1/8 thick ..

THANK.. and the next time ..

This message has been edited. Last edited by: loulou,

HELLO ..
I followed my plan ..

but with some changes :-)

The frame does not move at all, it is very very strong ..
everything will be painted black .........

before and after .. thank

BLACK .. is .. BLACK

You can use the card board and just fiberglass over it.. Most car hoods etc. Back in the days they used card board for reinforcement/ support. Now they mostly use foam since it can be injected into the form or sprayed as a layer.

I use to make R/C air planes out foam backer board used for houses. Then cover the foam with fiberglass and use Minwax brand polyurethane mixed with talcum powder, Instead of using epoxy.

THANK .. WAYNE S .. this board, was just to make a model .. to finish with aluminum .. your good advice are welcome and you also .. THANK

PS .. I AM GOING TO BED .. BYE

quote:

Originally posted by Wayne S:
You can use the card board and just fiberglass over it.. Most car hoods etc. Back in the days they used card board for reinforcement/ support. Now they mostly use foam since it can be injected into the form or sprayed as a layer.

I use to make R/C air planes out foam backer board used for houses. Then cover the foam with fiberglass and use Minwax brand polyurethane mixed with talcum powder, Instead of using epoxy.

this is a good idea i never thought of fibre glass the card board it will be strong . great idea wayne.s

OK .. .. S WAYNE ..
I understand better this morning ..
The fiberglass is very strong .. it would have been possible to use them .. THANK ..

I am proud of my work .. these blue frame, were very fragile now, everything is solid and very strong ..
I still have to study the anchorages of bumpers and solve the problem .. to make them stronger, too ..

This message has been edited. Last edited by: loulou,

quote:

Originally posted by loulou:
OK .. .. S WAYNE ..
I understand better this morning ..
The fiberglass is very strong .. it would have been possible to use them ..

I am proud of my work .. these blue frame, were very fragile now, everything is solid and very strong ..
I still have to study the anchorages of bumpers and solve the problem .. to make them stronger, too ..

Just letting people reading the post know there is more then one way to skin a cat.Your aluminum could be better Idea for all I know. I knew you used the card board as a Template.


My input was for future reference, Not only to others but to my self to in a way; The idea was lost in my head until I saw your template LOL.

Imaging how durable the idea, above would make Adrian`s Rovers come out. Heck with the polish on his Rovers, he could make female molds from them and use the mold to end up with real nice scale Bodies that could be re enforced even further like hood/door hinge areas to have a real killer scale machine. Wish I was as good as he is working with poster type board.

So many things out there I forget about. My brain is not what it use to be. There is even mold agents / products that either expand or shrink a certain percentage. Like you can make a mold of a 1/18 scale part and use the agent in the mold and it will shrink to say 1/24th scale. Or have a mold of a 1/18 scale part and the agent will expand to 1/10 scale etc.

I will give you reason WAYNE S ..
The fiberglass is very resistant .. being younger, I work (5/6 years) in a (body paint shop) and we serve a lot of fibre glass sheet and paste .. also the body plactic (MASON), which was very resistant ..

I can not assemble the LAND ROVER .. my bearing, will be here as a 12/15 day ..

My two diff are miles pieces .. :-)

Before closing the diff, I locked the rear diff .. I do not think he locked the front ..

I did not crawler .. Only diff locked the rear is it good ?

.. and I can not consolidate the bumper, as I did not assemble the two diff .. I have seen, at what point will move reinforcements ..


Thank .. for your advice ..

This message has been edited. Last edited by: loulou,

I would take out the center spring from the steering servo and leave the front diff unlocked loulou. The stock servo will not turn the 7 inch tires with a locked axle

THANK .. J33P3R ..
I will follow your advice .. FOR CENTER SPRING AND FRONT DIFF UNLOCKED ..

The track aluminum are (extraordinary) everything is solid, it remains for me to make some adjustments to the shocks (consolidate their anchorages) and also the bumpers ..

this looks very strong loulou the only problem i can see is if you need to open up the electronics the ladder frame crosses this .so you would need to unattach this frame to get at the electronics .but you most likely would not need to do this very often .

NAT .. everything is done (electronics) from the bottom .. absolutely nothing at the top :-) catches wire is very easily ...

i understand loulou the lr3 must be different from the jeep because when i had stock electronics they would not drop through the bottom of the chassie unless the electronic box cover was removed . thanks

Everything is dismantling, passing through the bottom .. No problemo ...

.. NAT, you should buy .. a land rover :-)

you have fun ..