hot shocks a reason .. it is unfortunate that these small servo does not work on our LAND ROVER and other NEWBRIGHT .. it would have been very practical ..
I think the only way would be to find a servo-motor stronger, and change only the motor ..

loulou thats a good idea if the stock motor in the N.B servo could be change,d it would improve the servo power .i don't know how difficult this would be to do in practice .but its worth a try .

there are 2 types of hobby grade servos. #1 has 3 wires going to a pot then 2 wires going to the motor. So it actually has 5 wires inside.

#2 has 3 wires going to a circuit board and the motor soldered to the board.

I'm not sure what the tower hobbies servo is like.

If I recall right there is a way to make #2 work
when you have 5 wires, but can't recall the info off the top of my head.

#1 you run the 3 wires to the pot then the other 2 to the motor direct.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Wayne S,

quote:

Originally posted by hot shocks:
loulou thats a good idea if the stock motor in the N.B servo could be change,d it would improve the servo power .i don't know how difficult this would be to do in practice .but its worth a try .

You could run a gear instead of the servo arm off the servo then another gear with the servo arm on it. More or less doing on the out side what a servo has on the inside to get more tq.

Here is a thought. If the 5 wire newbright servo has a pot inside it, and the 2 motor wires going direct to motor.

Why cant you use a hobby grade servo take the board out of it. Use the newbrights
pot then hook up the hobby grade servos motor like the Newbright has theirs hooked up?
All you would loose then is the hobby grades electronics. Motor gearing/box etc. would still be used.

a very good idea wayne,s the hobby servo could do well in the N.B if the controller board was taken out .but my soldering skills are not very good .the wire,s are very fine. i would love to see this in operation.

I have difficulty understanding ..

On the stock servo, there are two wire for the motor, and the other three wire, used to stop the motor once delivered to the right or left .. it's just an idea ..

With a servo motor HG, how to work on stock electric panel? What do you think will stop once delivered to the right or left .. with only three wire ?

If you can do, tell me how ..

This message has been edited. Last edited by: loulou,

loulou on the hobby servo it is the poteniometer that stops the servo direction .as you can see from the above pic it also has 3 wires .this would need to be solder into the newbright electronics to controll the servo stop points. i think it could be done .but iam not so good with a soldering iron. as wayne,s has said all that you need to get rid of is the hobby controller board .because they work in a different way to the newbright electronics .

quote:

Originally posted by hot shocks:
loulou on the hobby servo it is the poteniometer that stops the servo direction .as you can see from the above pic it also has 3 wires .this would need to be solder into the newbright electronics to controll the servo stop points. i think it could be done .but iam not so good with a soldering iron. as wayne,s has said all that you need to get rid of is the hobby controller board .because they work in a different way to the newbright electronics .

The pot is used to tell the servo were center is mainly I believe. Most servos have a stop on one of the gears that stops the movement. There are a few ways that servos work. With todays age some are digital (No pot) like #2 I wrote above.

hot shocks::: Simplest way I can think of soldering little wires is. Hold iron on wire and solder the wire first. After the wire is soldered, then bring the wire were you need it to be soldered. Touch the wire with iron, when the solder flows pull iron away.

i know its a little late to be asking but if you are going to mount a fan would you have to cut out some plastic from over the board or is it ok being covered as it is,the two boards are covered by plastic outer caseing(which protects it better from any sand or mud you might incounter)but im not sure about cutting or not to use the fans-

heres the fans i have-

the pictures didnt show up on my computer so i'll try to post them again-

these fans are pretty good on just a 9v-

hi roverforce you would need to remove the covers so the fans can cool the electronicks easy to do .those fans look good but these would work better and have there own mounting bracket ..... http://www.rc-area.co.uk/blog/2007/09/22/fastrax-cooling-fan-stands/

there are lots of types of these fans these that are shown are ment to stand outside the chassie but it would be easy to make them fit inside a 1/6 scale model .

thanks NAT your advice is always a big help

quote:

Originally posted by roverforce:
thanks NAT your advice is always a big help

The fans that you have are they computer fans? They look it, so don't the ones Nat is showing.

My thoughts. If you look on web for computer parts / Look for the type of fan used to piggy back the actual chip-set of the computer, if you need the fan inside. would be best to measure actual room you have to play with before buying.

A robotics place and forums or looking on the fan it,s self at the store. Might tell you the amps and volt,s.

yes they are from an old computer i had lieing aroun im very tight on funding so i have to make due with what i have,but thanks to all of you my rover is coming along nicely -

i was thinking about the cooling of the lr3 electronics and found this its a tamiya f150 pickup .but look at the fans the guy has mounted in the body of the truck these are computer fans to cool his esc not only do they look good but serve a purpose to .i just thought may be you guys with the heat problem could do something like this with the land rover.

p2