![]() |
|
|
Go
![]() |
New
![]() |
Find
![]() |
Notify
![]() |
Tools
![]() |
Reply
![]() |
|
Trail Lubber![]() |
Well Im at it again, barely finished building it for the last stage and its apart again. Hopefully this will be the last time for awhile tho. I already sold everything except my motor which is forsale also... but here is the new plan.
Engine: 4.0L, either stock with my intake, TB, injectors, header and exhaust or I may spend a lil' more time and money and stroke it to a 4.6L. Transmission: An AX-15 with new clutch, and rebuilt. Transfer Case: Dana 300 with clocking ring, twin sticks, LoMax 4;1, eventually 32spline outputs. Drivetrain: 14 bolt (FF) with 5:13 gears, Detroit locker, Disc brake conversion, shaved, diff cover. Dana 60, 5:13 gears, ARB, 35spline outers, Warn Hubs, HiSteer with Hydraullic Assist from West Texas, Diff cover. Suspension: Rear will be Cherokee Springs w/ some waggy and wrangler springs mixed in SOA. Traction bar, rear will have 1" shackles. Front will be Waggoneer springs SOA w/ either 1" shackles or a shackle reversal. The new springs will give me a 6" stretch in the rear, and a 2" in the front, if I go SR it will give me another inch or so. Shocks will be decided once its running and I can flex it up and measure and pretty much whatever I can afford at the time. Wheel/Tires: Wheels with be 15x10's, I want beadlocks, but may just go with some RockCrawlers until I can afford some MRT beadlocks or maybe some Hummer rims. Tires will be my 38.5x14.50x15s since I just got them and I would like to use them until I can afford some 42s. Other: Full cage which will be tied into the cage, building tube fenders now, new rockers, flat skid plate (I may have Horizon Off Road help me with that), some custom Crusher corners for the rear with LED lights. Making front and rear bumpers, front I am planning on getting a grill gaurd, stinger, all tied into the tube fenders and cage. Now for some questions... 1) Should I go with a shackle reversal in the front? 2) Should I buy the rear corner protection or make it? Who makes em? 3) Should I try and stretch it more then 8", I am wanting to stick with leaf springs because thats what I know, cheaper, and simple. But should I go ahead and move the hangers and stretch it more? 4)What traction bar should I go with, ladder bar, bam bar, etc? 5) Should I go with an AX15 or do something else on the tranny? Thats all, sorry for the novel... YJ, TPI 350, TH350, D300 w/ 4to1, 14b, FW D44, locked f/r, 5.13s, SOA on XJs rear, SOA on Waggys front w/ SRS, 38.5" SXs on 15x10s |
||
|
|
Extreme Rockcrawler |
1) I like the idea behind shackle reversal, and i think a better ride quality, and better offroad capability is maintained because the tire is no longer going against oposing forces when hitting bumps or climbing. 2) if you can make your own, go for it. If not, poison spyder customs makes some nice rear protection, along with a variety of other products. 3)stretcing is something to consider since you desire to run 38's. Just remeber to take in consideration driveshaft lengths, fender cutting, and having enough frame to make the stretch so you can keep the leaf spring you listed. 4) I believe more makes a good traction bar, and i know people who have used the skyjacker one with soa and have had no problems with axle wrap up to a 38. 5)If you have already rebuit it, i would keep the ax15 until it blows. But if not, since the rest of your drivetrain seems bomb proof, you might as well upgrade now, while everything is apart. The ax-15 can not stand up to the abuse, especially with the added power of a stroker engine, and turning the large meats, and insane gearing.
2000 Sahara: Same stuff as everyone else 2005 Dodge 3500: Diesel towing buddy |
|||
|
|
Trail Lubber |
1. Yes, I have Shackle rev. and love it. Remember you'll need a long spline driveshaft. Mine is built from implement pto shaft material. It looks "Farmer John" but it works great and is fairly balanced.
2.I like Poison Spyders, except for the diamond plate. But if you have the ability to make the radius bend go for it. 3. I'd stretch it as much as possible without frame extensions. My friend did this and loves it. 4.I built mine and it resembles the one Sam's off road sells. They're really easy to build. 5. If budget allows I'd look towards a NV4500 or go to a 4 sp and go T18, 6.32 low gear. Asside from being a YJ it sounds like our Jeeps could be twins. 86' CJ7, 258,T18,D44's 4.56 f/r, Detroit front, Warn shafts, CTM joints, rear spool, 4wheel disc, SOA w/ wagoneer springs, custom shackle reversal, 38"tsl, Allied Beadlocks,8274-50 Warn, Custom 6 point cage, custom bumpers, and still building. |
|||
|
Trail Lubber![]() |
Well I have been trouble finding a front 60 in the price range I like, but I found some "CHEAP!" front 44s so I bought one, and the guy threw in another for free. So now I have a chevy FW D44 for the front until I can find a front 60. The guy I bought the axle is also going to do my steering for me, (tap the driver side arm, build histeer arms, install). But thats the only thing that will change on my plans so far.
YJ, TPI 350, TH350, D300 w/ 4to1, 14b, FW D44, locked f/r, 5.13s, SOA on XJs rear, SOA on Waggys front w/ SRS, 38.5" SXs on 15x10s |
|||
|
Rockcrawler![]() |
Any update pics???
95 YJ 4.0, ax-15, NP231 w/ 4.1 Teralow, SOA, D44/8.8, 5.13's, Lockers, 38x12.50 SX's. www.crawlers.cjb.net |
|||
|
Trail Lubber![]() |
Now I found a sweet deal on a TPI 350 so I am getting that also.
YJ, TPI 350, TH350, D300 w/ 4to1, 14b, FW D44, locked f/r, 5.13s, SOA on XJs rear, SOA on Waggys front w/ SRS, 38.5" SXs on 15x10s |
|||
|
Trail Lubber![]() |
RockReady you can come over whenever you want and check out the parts I have right now if you want to.
YJ, TPI 350, TH350, D300 w/ 4to1, 14b, FW D44, locked f/r, 5.13s, SOA on XJs rear, SOA on Waggys front w/ SRS, 38.5" SXs on 15x10s |
|||
|
| Previous Topic | Next Topic | powered by eve community |
| Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
|

