Just thought I would bring this topic back up from the dead to update my progress and hopefully help other people out. I just finished the swap a few weeks ago. I did hit a few snags. My old uni-bearings went out (with 205K on them, so I figure thats not too bad) So I figured that would be as good as time as any to start the swap. I took the knuckles to work and had the spacers TIG welded on by one of our welders. I used a old junk hub and bolted it together to make sure it all lined up right. After I got all the old junk off, got the new ball joints in (remember, 205K, they probably needed it) got everything bolted together. The WJ knuckles DO use the same size taper tre's as the YJ so the stock ones almost bolted right on. I said almost as this is where the fun started. I found out pretty quick why the tres didnt want to go back on real easy, they were hitting the springs. The arms on the WJ knuckles are LOWER than the YJ ones. So useing the stock tie rods made them rub on the leaf springs. But not bad, they only rubed at full lock (the adjuster sleeve on the drivers side rubed pretty good) But in good news the WJ calipers cleared my 15x8 wheels, not by mutch, but they do clear. Well after deeming that the rubbing tie rods would have to do untill I could get it home (it broke down at a friends house, thats where I did all the work) I start to pull out and notice it was really hard to pull out. Start driveing and both the front tires howl. WTF? Dont know why I didnt notice it untill then, but both front tires were pointed in at each other! So not only are the arms on the WJ knuckles lower, they are also set farther out. So some quick work with a pipe wrench got it adjusted back good enough to drive home. Long story short, to fix the problem I had to reverse (ream out) the taper to where I could use one ton tre's that bolted on from the top of the arm, and not the bottom like stock. If you had a coil spring rig (ZJ,XJ,TJ) you wouldnt have this problem, and could re use your stock tie rods if you wanted. So I ended up spending about $300 more than I planed just in parts (the reamer, and custom 1 ton tie rod kit) But I did put my OME lift on and the tie rods worked out real well with the lift.

But now for thw whopper, the brakes are really not any better than the stock ones. In fact, if anything they might be slightly worse. I have more pedal travel than stock (due to the larger WJ calipers) But I knew that was gonna happen. I can not get them to lock up. Once I put on the lift and switched to ss braided lines all the way around it helped a little bit, and mabey got it back close to stock. But I am still not 100% happy with it. T fix it, first I will need a larger bore MC to push enough fluid cause the stock one is not really cutting it. ANd then a better booster to help me push the extra fluid. Like I said, its about back to stock, but not as good as I think it should have been plus I dont like the extra pedal travel. So now I am gonna hurry and finish the rest. I am gonna use a 1 1/8 bore 4 wheel disc mc from a early 80's corvette, that should get enough fluid to the calipers. As for the the booster, I am gonna need more power to push the larger bore MC so I am useing a (brand new) hydroboost made to fit a 03 chevy truck. I am almost finished with the mods and I sould be close to bolting it on by the end of the month at the latest (currently working 7 days a week)

But a few notes on the mustang cobra parts talked about the the first thread. I have found out that they are not the best parts to use So I would reccomend staying away from them. The calipers, other than looking really good, do not preform as well as the stock WJ ones. The cobra calipers have small bore pistons and do not clamp very well. The WJ calipers have larger bore pistons and are mutch better at clamping than the cobra ones. The cobra hydroboost is also not a good choice because it is the weakest hydroboost made. Not to mention that it can only use the crappy small bore ford mc, an uses odd size hose fittings that pretty mutch no one has.

While looking almost the same on the outside, hydroboost units come in many diffrent boost powers. With the mustang one being one of the least powerfull ones. If you want a real hydroboost get one from a 3/4 or 1 ton chevy. Useing one of those gives you way more power and opens the door to choose a mc with the bore size and set up (disc/drum or disc/disc) you need to fit your needs. not to mention they use the standard metric o-ring hoses that pretty mutch every jeep and chevy have used since about 1980. So hopefully I can get all this done before the month is out and finally have some REAL brakes.