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ROCKCRAWLER.com RCBoards ROCKCRAWLER.com RCBoards TJ - Wrangler Another Slip Yoke question|
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Newbie |
With a 2005 LJ and a 4" short arm suspension lift , a tummy tuck and a 1" body and engine mount lift is a slip yoke really needed? It seems as though the long length of the drive shaft and new angle provided by the engine lift would be enough. The 4" lift is the only one of these mods I have done so far but the others are coming soon. If there is anybody who has actually done these mods without the slip yoke please respond and give me some feedback. Thanks
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Pebble Hopper |
The answer could be a maybe ? The body lift does nothing for the drive
line angle - the tummy tuck - depending on how it is done can make the drive line angle shallower - the best answer is to get a magnetic angle finder and hang it on the main tube of the rear drive shaft and measure your decent angle - flat your jeep out in hour garage - that is position it on a flat and measure your body position so you know the jeep is sitting flat and strait - then measure the angles of your drive shaft, tcase, frame, and motor. You're trying to find the combined angle of the engine/tcase - which is rigid and then the angle of the drive shaft. The combination of the the engine/tcase and the drive shaft give you a number say - 12 degrees that lets you determine if you need a slip yoke. Angles on the frame should let you know if the jeep is sitting strait and flat - measurements from the floor to position points on your jeep let you know if one corner is higher or lower - also check your tire so make sure the a correct for this operation - you want a square - flat - configuration. The angle of decent of the engine/tcase is subtracted from the shaft angle to find your bend. 16-20+ degrees means you are in CV range - because you bend even more when you crawl - 12-16 is maybe a CV but yes for a slip yoke - 10-12 is a maybe for a slip and under 7 (stock) is a no worry mate ... The most problematic issue is that you can only measure a static drive line angle and you have to consider the jeep in full droop - The way I did it was to jack the rear end of the jeep up on two high lift jacks - using the body - and let the rear end droop - for me the droop was big 20+ - I had to go to a CV shaft. If you do this be very careful - do it slowly so you do not max out your drive shaft and bend it or the ends - and also be ultra carefull any time you are working on a jeep that is up on jacks.... Have a safety person - use jacks stands - lots - and have spare jacks around, chock the tires with big stuff. If you look like you are going to max out the angle of the rig you are measuring - take the drive shaft out and use a substitute for angle finding - for me it was a piece of pipe - and use that to estimate your angle at full droop - other wise you can bend your drive shaft ends or yoke and damage your drive line... Then you have to consider your driving objectives - how often and how hard are you going to push the jeep - if you are like me - ultra - hard core - more articulation is better the answer is easy. |
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Pebble Hopper |
Most people have no idea how to measure the engine/tcase angle and work
with a guess-ta-met for their vehicle with the M/M lift and their belly plate. I'm an engineering GEEK so I had all this stuff when I put my Long Arm lift on - mine is the TJ - so I really had drive line angle problems - yours must be almost a foot and a half longer than mine so you have alot more flexability. I had drive line buzz because of too steep and angle - and I did bend the yoke on mine when I put the belly plate in ....... Learned that leason the hard way. |
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Newbie |
Thank you very much for the input. It'll take a few reads to wrap my mind around it. But I'll get there. |
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Pebble Hopper |
Also if your jeep configuration is something common - the
lift manufacturer or the tummy tuck manufacturer may be able to help you with recommendations. I had a RE short arm lift and they recommended the CV drive shaft for the short shaft problem. Once I had my Atlas and my long arm in the configuration was getting unique - for the time - and I had to figure out most of my geometry problems myself. Since them my friends have seen alot of different rigs - out here in AZ we are either doing hard core rock crawling, scrambling, or dunes so we end up with a big mix of drive line issues. The rock crawling crowd invariable end up going to a short shaft rig with a CV - the dune guys need more power and bigger u-joints so for them a flatter less flexible drive line (assumes they are not jumpers...) seems to work better. |
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Pebble Hopper |
The biggest problem with a slip yoke is that it
takes up length - drive line length on the short TJ is critical - so for the short drive line the options is to remove the factory slip yoke and put a short shaft kit in that increases the length of the overall drive length and the put the length back in the expansion joint of the drive line the issue with this option is that without a lip - for a TJ with lift this means a short shaft kit that removes the slip yoke and a new drive shaft with more length or a CV drive shaft with flex and length. With a LJ you have the length and deciding to toss the slip yoke becomes an issue of what length of shaft you need for your lift and your driving ranges. I assumed that you were thinking of tossing the stock slip yoke in prep for a new drive shaft with more length - I guess the bigger question is - do you already have a slip yoke - stock or otherwise on the rig - and what changes prompt the question - so the next question I would ask is what is your existing configuration and what do you want to do that you consider a slip yoke a requirement. I'm thinking that I assumed too much about your question and may have confused you with too much information. |
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ROCKCRAWLER.com RCBoards ROCKCRAWLER.com RCBoards TJ - Wrangler Another Slip Yoke question