Ok, so I've gone and lifted my jeep, and now I notice the rear axle is not centered in the wheel well....I am the type of person that will lose sleep and sanity over something like this!! Is my best course to replace the upper and lower control arms with longer or adjustable? \
Thanks
Matt

simple- track-bar.
either get an adjustable rear track bar (which is ideal) or a rear track bar bracket which lifts the original mount away from the axle to help pull it back to center. I could explain how this works or take a look at your axle and imagine how that track bar being a constant length will pull the axle to the side, once lifted of course.

When you say not centered in the wheel well do you mean the axle is too far towards the front of your jeep or is the axle too far to left or right of your jeep?

When you lift a tj, the wheelbase is shortened because of the control arms, if this is what is happening, then longer control arms will pull the axle back towards the rear of the jeep.

Also when its lifted, the axles get of center to the left or the right via track bar front or rear, but Unicycle Avenger already took care of that in the previous post

Also, what lift did you install, likely somebody else has already solved that problem and can give you some real world advice.

make sure you don't try to put it backwards too much, since you'll start hitting the diff cover with the gastank(skid) ... and don't ask how I know
Just make sure your pinion angle stays true/correct when you start messing with both the upper and lower control arms

yes, longer/adjuatable control arms are what you need to move your rear axle back to the center of your wheelwell.

Like has been said, make sure your pinion angle stays good, and that you don't go so far back that you hit the front of your gastank with your diff cover.

Your lift kit should have come with either an adjustable trackbar or the bracket for the axle end of the trackbar, so your axle should be centered side to side already.

My Long Arm RE kit allowed me to move my axle back almost two inches - but I have
a custom gas tank that was built so I could do that - had to bend the RE adjustable
track bar to center side to side - without the adjustable track bars both of my
axles were a little off - one the the left - the other to the right - and it drove
me crazy until I got the adjustable track bars in - with the Long Arms my track
bar bracket on the back only lasted a few months - and the failure cost me alot
so make sure you have the bracket checked for cracks and beef it up if you can
afford the money - it is well worth it.

The bracket failure cost me three tires, two shocks, two arms, and an entire
bracket rebuild on the axle.

I just got mad at my gas tank skid and hit it a few times with a hammer. It was a big hammer, too. Right were the rusty spot was from where it'd been making contact. We're not talking contact to the point where it wouln't move, just scuffing.

The kits do a pretty good job of handling the problem. I used Currie. That supplied me with the adjustable control arms. The bracket to reattach the track bar at a higher point solved that problem. Since I already had a Tom Woods rear shaft, I had the extra length I needed.

Whenever you start modifying the basic suspension, you've got to consider all the problems you can create.

You don't have to move the axle back to get the correct pinion angle, but most of us use both the upper and lower adjustments to get where we want to be. Worse, most of us don't get it right the first time or two. We just tinker until we get a solution we can live with.

The stock jeep gas tank is a very nice - if light - tank - I hated having
to replace it - but for me it was the very first thing I damaged ... Note to
newbies - the stock skid plate is crap crap crap - and as a result I put a
custom tank in - which allowed me to move my axle back and forth over the
years - trying to cure the various geometry problems that result from rolling
the axle back so much for the lift - that all went away when I did my axle
rebuild - cut all the brackets off and rolled them forward seventeen degrees.

That curred many problems - one new heavy duty brackets with correct angles
holes, and strong enough for the RE Long Arms setup - correct shock location -
no more upside down shocks - correct angle so they worked smoothly. - correct
track bar bracket - strong - and correct angle so the axle does not want to
move to one side/back - correct spring buckets - so the springs don't pop and always stays level - ideal arm connection location so the axle is less prone to pop and jack - the ability to hit the right pinion angle in the middle of all my arm
adjustments alone. With all the corrections my tire wear has gone up by
almost 25% - no more tire rotations every two thousand . Max flex - 20-22
inches on the rear axles is very very good for a TJ.

Way smoother ride at high speed on those killer washboards - 70 mph no problem...
Stays aligned for years at a time now - There have been days when I just knocked
the snot out of it and I just knew that as soon as I was on the pavement that it
was going to be out of alighment - and WOOOOOw - it still drives straight ...

On my new build up - I'm going to put a new RE heavy kit on - day one - and miss
four years of dicking with the geometry...