Anyone using a fuse block between the battery and the positive wire to their winch? If so, what amp fuse are you using, where can I get one,where did you mount it?

I use an inline fuse and a Warn disconnect block
the fuse is specified by your winch maker - mine is big - its been so long I forget how big it is -
150+ amps comes to mind.

150 is for my air compressor - the big one is - the size of my thumb - must be even bigger ...

And I seem to have lost the spare !@#$%^&*

Way back in the early 1980s I bought an early M12000 warn (serial number 000067.) It had the early version of the thermal cutout. My assumption was that its purpose was to do about the same thing as a fuse. The new 9500 TI by warn has a similar device, and again I assume it was to act as a breaker in the circuit.

I saw a buddy fry an 8274 years ago. It was so hot you couldn't put your hand on it. They dumped parts of a cooler full of water on it to make it start working again. After a few cycles of that it just stopped for good, motor fried. It was a good lesson.

I had an 8274 on my CJ at that time and just stepped in with a fresh winch, battery, and finished the recovery.

While I can see where an oversized fuse might perform a function, I see no reason to install one on my present jeep.

Some things come to mind in all this. I've felt that Warn (and they're probably the best) only sizes their wires to the minimum. Granted they do use copper, but most vehicles have undersized components for the rest of the circuit. Even those that come with a 100A or larger alternator usually have tiny wires on the charging part going back to the battery. They try to save weight by undersizing the battery, which also saves money. After a few years the battery may not be even capable of some tasks.

All that ends up as heat, which increases resistance. That causes more heat and a failure.

Another place to worry about are things like ground wires and the actual attachment to the battery. While I hate side post batteries, I use them in my jeep. For the last 20 or so years I've been buying adaptors and using the side post (weaker electrically) to operate all the chasis functions. Then I use my top post (I've been running the yellow top things) for my winch.

For whatever reason I used the Warn cables this cycle. In the past I've used welding lead out to the winch itself. Probably because it was easier and the leads were pre-installed into the winch itself.

If your battery terminals are even the slightest bit corroded, you've got a problem.

Anyone winching should be listening and watching their cable and winch. You can hear it start to bog down. Thats not all that bad, and anyone that does any significant winching is used to it. But when you get anywhere near the stall point, its time to back off and let the battery recharge and the winch cool off.

In the past I even installed an automatic tranny dashpot to kick up my rpm's while winching. It was also a convenient cruise control, if not adjustable for circumstances. You can stick a crushed beer can or anything else in the linkage to do the same function, or have someone inside on the gas.

I'm not sure a fuse really is that necessary, but I wonder what happens if a malfunction takes place and the soleniods stick. Then a fuse might prevent the winch from turning itself inside out.

I'm one of the few people I know who has a fuse in there rig - but I have
two batteries and alot more power also - when I put the circuit in for
the battery charging switch and the power and ground blocks I figured I would
put an inline fuse in the main power line - like Dick I had not put one in
before - but with the new batteries and the expensive power blocks - batteries
and other stuff I figured it was cheap insurance.

I have a Warn - high power disconnect in the line for both the air compressors
and the winch. I had planned to just keep the winch unplugged until I needed it
but practical experience - you have 120 seconds to get your rig cabled or it is
going to fall of the cliff type stuff - lead me to keep the winch en-gageable and
even moved the winch bag from the rear storage - to a smaller quick available one
under the driver seat ... I have an older style winch with a wire control head
and I keep in wired to the winch if I believe I am going to winch but even if
it is not it sits in a small back under my seat so I can pull it out in seconds.

I use jell cell batteries with the gold side mounts like Dicks talks about - you
almost have to because even a little corrosion will cause the entire rig to
heat up. I clean and lube the about twice a year during my seasonal service
interval.

I had a wire vibrate through a few years back on another rig and as soon
as I plugged the disconnect in the entire system shorted - it was my fault
I had run the wire through the radiator grill to the winch and somewhere in
the two years the rig was in place the protector had disappeared - and POOOFFF
there went my thousand dollar winch - the winch did not die entirely but from
then on it was very anemic and hot.

I am putting the same wiring blocks and controls in my new rig and I will put
a slow burn fuse in the winch setup again - since everything on my wiring
blocks is fused - everything - one more did not seem wrong - when I called the
maker I talked to a rep and asked what type I should use and he told me exactly
why I should use one - and it was because the battery power was so high with
the duel battery rig - and expensive given the stuff I have wired in over the
years - the lights alone are over a thousand dollars ....

Since it is a classic inline fuse - got it from a boat warehouse - if I have
to take it out I can without having to dick with the wiring.

Things to address on my current build up -

1) Dual battery rig - move AC lines
2) Battery switch - same as I have in my boat - fused power blocks
3) Ground block with cover
4) Dual fuses for the air compressors
5) Warn line breaks - compressors and winch
6) Warn infrared control fob - no more wire winch control
7) Integrated bumper winch kit - now its even closer to the winch
8) Non-wire rope - tired of the wire problems and I'm going to try
the new plastic rope for a few years.
9) Manual Kill/Control override switches for the interior - how to do that
depends on the type of winch you get. Seen to many people hurt with the
driver unable to stop or override the winch - going to put a over-ride
control block on the dash so if I have to control it I can.
10) Custom bumper/roller position - I think I would like the roller a little
lower - and I want the ability to pull my front suspension up with the
winch.

11) Covers, dust and water proofing ...

My winch, lights, and starter are not connected to the side mounts - too much power for
them - I have double lead on the top of the batteries for 150 amp and up stuff.

Another thing you might consider is an interior winch control. I don't have one on my current TJ, which should indicate how important it is. But its very simple to pick up ignition hot power and then just use a snow plow center off toggle switch. You can mount it anyplace you please. Another alternative a buddy used was a hidden power switch (so idiots playing with your jeep can't accidently or intentionally mess with it.)

Amusing that I also keep my contol wire under my drivers seat, right where I can get it in a hurry. Along side the drivers seat I carry my US Military cowhide gloves, much better than commercial gloves, and my Halon fire extinguisher. Yes, all at immediate hands on position. I usually keep a dry chemical extinguisher (for other peoples vehicles) and my tow strap beside the passengers seat.

I now use the old hillbilly method of operating my winch, plugging it into the winch and running it thru the rolled down window. Not classy, but I've found that 99% of my winching takes place with me either in the drivers seat where its easy to use my hand controller.

I like the high density poly-whatever line. If for no reason other than eliminate about 25# of weight out in front of the front wheels. The big advantages in operation are the fact that you don't cut your hands and that rewinding in smooth layers isn't needed. Those facts alone make the added expense worthwhile. I also appreciate the easy-out freewheeling of the newer planetary winches, and not hauling the steel cable uphill is a bonus.

Internal Winch Control Block - going to put one on the new rig - I have
seen too many situations where the driver needs to have basic control
of the winch from inside while the spotter is either in trouble or
doing something else - tired of having the wire taped to the hood
and across the jeep into my window.

Bumper Winch Materials - Once I started moving my small winch kit
to the cab (Under the driver seat) because I needed FAST ACCESS I
started thinking about moving the kit to the front bumper like I
have in my Ford - my Fords Has two lockable boxes, one on each
side of the winch plate - and the fast assess to rope, cable,
gloves, etc really would be great for the jeep. The problem with
the front jeep bumper is it is just TOO small for much stuff - and
really would require ANOTHER custom bumper - so I can't do it with
the current TJ but it is going to be addressed with the Unlimited.

Wire Rope - I payed for it so many times I am tired of the problems.
The new synthetic stuff has been around long enough to see that it is
far stronger - less prone to snapping with recoil - and is lighter.
Just not having to worry about rewind with those STUPID wire threads
cutting my had - AZ is the land of rocks and no matter what I do
I get them .......

Fuse Block - there are several commercial battery-lead-fuse blocks
products out there - they have 150 amp slow burn fuses in them so
not only can they fuse the winch but the starter also. If they fit
my space limitations I will consider them instead of my home grown
method.

My biggest problem has been the V-8 planning and install - I'm going
to pay more for the accessories and their modifications than I did
for the engine. I may have to stack the batteries one on top of the
other - not what I wanted - or move one somewhere else - because the
AC hardware is just too tight. Now the new four door unlimited engine
box with the extra length and width is looking ideal - *&^%$#@ - and
of course I have the 2006 with the same size as the TJ ....

Thanks for all the information and ideas. My main concern was running any positive line, and especially one with such a large conductor, without a fuse for protection from shorts to the frame. While an underhood disconnect would work, It wouldn't be the most convenient arrangement in a pinch. At this time I'm leaning towards using a high amp solenoid to disable the winch via an under dash switch.

Thanks again
REC

I have had the wiring on the winch go on one rig - it took over ten
years for me to see this twice - even if you put a switched solenoid
in you still need to consider a fuse - just like the Warn disconnect
block - you switch it in /plug it in and if it is shorted on the
frame - POOOOOF. You kill one or the other depending on how it is
hooked up.

Consider the money you have in the electrical system after a few years
and when it adds up to over $3000 to $4000 - $250 for a fuse block and
an inline fuse seems - trivial - that is is why I put it in.

Add my winch, lights, compressors, radios, stereo, nav, gps, etc and
it can really go into the dollars.

Good point. I think it would be well worth the money to go with a normally open solenoid and a good fuse block. I'm headed out to the Texas Spur Jeep Jam tomorrow so this project will have to wait. Maybe I can get it done before the Palo Duro Challenge at the end of the month.

Thanks again,