Which would be a better option, to go teralow with 2LO or a Rubicon transfer case swap? Which option is more work and/or more $$$?

I think you can get rok-trac t-cases for about the same as a 2Lo kit. But the rok-trac has the ability to handle more torque than the 231 even with the 2Lo kit. It has larger bands and just way over built. but you may have to change your drive shaft. (I can't recall at the moment if the 241 rok-trac has a flange instead of a yoke for the output).

The cheapest and easiest is probably the TeraLow kit. Maybe not the best, but if you don't use a SYE, you can still use the same drive shaft.

The better option would be the Rubicon case and the rear drive shaft that the owner took out. Usually anyone who wants to replace that also replaced the factory rear shaft. Your front shaft should work just fine.

When you go beyond that to aftermarket cases, you normally end up replacing both front and rear DS. As you do that, you run into money (like $200+ per end.)

If it were me in that situation, I'd price the TeraLow (you can sometimes find a discount, or a used one.) Then I'd price the Rubi case and try to beg/negotiate its shaft, too.

My 231 has a sye kit already with a Woods rear drive shaft. What are the drawbacks of a teralow? From what I can tell they can be noisey and run hot (although not everyone experiences these side affects???). Is this due to poor installation or just from the fact the planetaries will be spinning that much faster? Are there any design flaws with the teralow unit?

My guess is that some just come from the factory with slightly out of spec parts. Not enough to reject them, and maybe its not predictable. If you've already got the rear shaft from Tom, I'd say just put the TeraLow in. The one I had was in my 2000 TJ, and it worked fine. I used synthetic gear oil in mine, and there is some question if that was the best thing. A buddy still owns that jeep and it runs fine with no problems. That means its gone to Moab a half dozen times and the All-4-Fun probably 3 or 4 summers. Thats casual 4 wheeling, not heavy throttle play.

Mine didn't ever run hot that I can remember. I don't even know how I would know that. Generally synthetic lube does run cooler. It also helps to keep the mud off the case. Allowing a coat to dry and remain there prevents any heat from disapating. Your state isn't on your posts, so YMMV if you're in the 110+ desert.

If it becomes a problem that you notice, you can do a lot of things to shed that. Like directing a small fan on the side of the frame, pointing toward the case. that moves a tremendous amout of air (if its on the side away from the exhaust.) Hint: old used computer fans usually run on 12v DC. You can also use one inside the jeep to cool your feet! They die when submerged.

The heat may be coming from your exhaust, too. You can fabricate a shield to deflect that heat if its really a problem. Maybe you're anticipating a problem where none exists. Again, I didn't have any problem, nor does my buddy I sold that jeep to.

Thanks for the input. I will start my search for good priced teralow, perhaps even a used unit. I will cross my fingers so that I might find a unit that is WELL "within spec". The thought has crossed my mind too that I could easily sell my 02' Sahara (which I bought new) and get a Rubicon.... but I think I would rather throw in lockers and re-gear my Sahara. I am afraid I will miss all of the "little details" if I get rid of my current ride. I built it up from stock, a lot of sweat, cursing, and emotional attachement along the way. It's been paid off for a long time too....

If anyone has a good line on teralows, let me know.

BTW I live on the west coast, heat is not much of an issue.

Actually your Sahara is the top of the line trim package. The Rubicon is a step lower on trim but its better classed as a performance package. That because of the gearing and lockers. The interior isn't all that great.

Its not a bad plan, but if you can't do the gear setup yourself, it might be better to start looking for a set of Rubi axles. A buddy found a front and rear in Moab a couple of months ago for $3,000. Since he'd already blown his 30 out, it was an easy decision.

Most people who regear go to 4.56 as a practical compromise between street and fun. Those that bought jeeps with 4.10s just suffer with it on the road. All of us with 4:1 transfer cases don't have a problem off road, the diff ratios no longer being a problem. 4.10s start to be a real problem when your tire size reaches 35. Its unworkable past that.

The best time to buy anything is before you need it, when you can take your time and negotiate.

What rear end do you have? D35 or D44? The D35 probably isn't worth re-gearing. It'll die if you're not careful. Better and cheaper to seek and buy an already set up D44.

My biggest grip with any model other than a Sahara is the interior. I wish Jeep was more color conscience, a Rubicon without the silly fabric patterns would have a much higher drool factor!

My stock rear axle is a D44 and I have the auto trans. I am pretty happy with 33's and yes I will be researching reputible shops for the re-gear and/or axle swap. I was thinking of going to 4.10s, I really have no desire for 35s. I like the idea of swapping the front axle with a rubi. Going that route I would have to consider lockers more closely. Having a rubi locker up front and perhaps a ARB in the stock rear, I think I would need to run different pressures to each. Is that feasible?

Switching both axles for $3000+ would be slightly more costly than locking my stock axles but, for the front, a stronger solution. I will spend some more time researching that possibility. It just sounds like a better idea to use the rubi parts. My biggest concern would be the rear brakes. I have heard a few folks mention thier displeasure after converting from drums to discs in the rear (mostly related to the parking brake). I may even need a new master cylinder?

I would like to uncover any hidden costs with either option.

I know the parts sellers hate to hear it, but ARBs have earned a reputation for being undependable. A lot of that is related to the compressors and the lines, but anytime you have a vibrating vehicle and that kind of pressures, you'll develop leaks.

A while back something really interesting happened. All thru the 1970s and 1980s the most common failure out on the trails was a Ujoint failing. Suddenly as the ARBs became popular, failures of them or the air that kept you going overtook Ujoints by a wide margin. Yes, I've owned them, had more than my share of trouble with them. And I've had friends with those same problems.

I've only had my 03 Rubi for 5 years now. I've managed to read some posts where the owners had some trouble. Most of that related more to them beating the jeep than any inherent flaw. What seems to be filtering out of all this is that the factory air lockers are rock solid. There is a distinct limit on how much horsepower to stupidity you can put thru them.

The braking problem with disks can be one of a number of causes. The best answer is to just obtain a Rubicon brake valve (sits on the frame) and use that. I'm not aware of mine using a different master cylinder.

Before you leap in any direction, sit down and price out all you want to do, and where you expect to be when its done. If you don't already have a locker in your 44, and you want to go to 4.10s, its going to be hard to beat a bolt in application. Same for the front end. When its all said and done, you'll probably pay as much for a gear change, front and rear lockers, and a compressor as the Rubi parts would cost.

Even after its done, there's always the question of the competency of the installer on aftermarket parts. The Rubicon gears and lockers were set up at the Dana factory, and those are almost always perfect. If you keep the D30 front, it will always be a weak point. If it fails, and they usually do at some point, then that option won't look nearly as attractive.

The buddy that scattered his D30 in Moab a few months ago had a 2001. Thats a long life for a 30 thats been 4 wheeled much. His choice was simple, he got the 44 front and the rear disks he wanted. And he can still sell off his 44 rear (w/ARB) and the parts not trashed from his D30. For him, it was an easy decision. He just didn't get to pick the timing.