I know they sell a set valved for a TJ, anyone using them? Opinions?

im usen em. sucks for me cuz after you have to get the jks bottom adaptor and then the jks upper adaptor it kills about 1.5 of collapsable travel. i blew a shock out due to it pressing together. i forget my valving. just call bilstein and they will set you right. if i could do it again, id go with some 5150's with the piggy back. cheaper and less troublesome, or just go w/some long travel gas shocks like the RE ones.

it's the firmest valving they have 255/75 or something close, and yes the 5150's rock!!

I am currenty using some long travel Rancho 9000s, and they are too stiff for a Jeep. They must be for some full size trucks or something. My shock mounts have been moved to allow a longer shock, so the JKS adapter (I use the upper conversion mount) is not a problem. I am trying to find something valved for a TJ and runs can up. The 7100s seem too pricey to "experiment" with.

care to snap a pic or two of how you moved the front shock mounts? ive been babbling with ideas and i dont wanna do a hoop per say... how bout a pic.?

i've had both the middle valving and heavy valving on my tj and the heay one 255/70 is the way to go, the middle is for dual shock and the light is for tripple shock, this is straight from the man an bilestein.

TJeeper,

I have the RE shocks right now, and they work great. They were a touch stiff at first with 31's and stock everything else, but once I added the 33's, winch and heavy duty front bumper, and the rear tire carrier and gas tank skid they settled out nicely. They are can up, made by Eidlebrock, and probably about $200 a set of 4. Worked good for nearly 2 years and counting.

Good luck,
Mark

I take no credit for this, it was done by the previous owner of the axle. He cut out the stock mount, and welded in some square tubing at the bottom of the housing, with a mount cut out for the shock. Good idea, but he didn't get the measurements quite right. At full steering lock the calipers touch the shocks (barely) causing the brakes to loose pressure. 2 or 3 pumps on the pedal and it is fine, but I want to find a shock that mounts can up to eliminate the problem. I have seen people use this method successfully, so it can be done with proper measurement.

Another way to use longer shocks is to cut the upper shock mount and weld in a Ford shock tower. This also eliminates the shock pin so standard shocks can be used.

so just flip the shocks over so the shaft faces down.

Tried that, didn't work. It was like running no shocks at all. I called Rancho about it, they said their 9000 series was not meant to be run can up, air gets in the fluid and results in no resistance. I know other people run theirs can up with no problems, so it must be the particular model shock I have.

I'm using the RE monotube shocks and they are great. I had Trailmaster SSVs before and my Jeep rides a lot smoother on the highway and it seems to take up the bumps a lot better off road, even with my 36" TSLs and a short arm lift.

how about you torch, grind off the tab mounts that the other guy put on and get something like this

shockmount-lrg.jpg (17 Kb, 28 downloads)

I run doeschtech 4340 I believe is the # but my fronts are can up and rear are can down and they work great either way.

yeah but can your doeschtech's give you flex like this?

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