I want to install a locker myself and am looking for someone who has done it and how the different types compare - cost and performance wise. I want to spend under $500 and do the work myself. I have a 78 CJ 7 with stock 258 and 3 speed. Any advice?

front or rear?
Either way -> a Lockright will work great and gives you the best bang for the buck
My buddy runs Lockrights (about $270) both front and rear (30 and 44) with 37" MT/R's and so far so good.
I've had 2 Noslips (which are from the same company -> Powertrax) and they're a little more forgiving on the street, but are about 100 bucks more a piece.
All the above lockers can be installed into the existing carrier so no need to reset the ring and pinion or anything

to do it yourself your probably looking at a "lunchbox" locker which replase your spider gears in the diff do it your self no problem i would look into the aussie locker from www.torqmasters.com it was 240 delivered to my door i just put it in the front 44 and i'm headed out to the local mud pit on sat to test it out.

First things first!
I'm not sure on your rear axle but if you have a model 20 go ahead and get rid of the stock 2 pc axles and replace w/ one piece( @ $200) from Randy's. Might as well do them while you have it apart. Make sure your carrier isn't a limited slip. (I was told I needed a standard open carrier (@ $100 new) so I did).

Installation is simple if your mechanically inclined. (at least for dana 30 front and M20 rear.)
1. Pull your axles out @ 6" or just enough to get the splined part out of your carrier. (front end takes a little time for all the hub, caliper,ect.)
2. holding your carrier in is a set of clamps on either side ***Mark left and right sides so that you can reinstall them in the same exact place.
3. Pull carrier out.
4. remove ring gear from carrier.
5. Remove all internals of carrier.
6. Follow the instructions in the lockright box step by step.

I checked mine by makeing sure the outside gear in the locker had room to release and spin before I reinstalled my carrier.

It is more a pain to get everything taken off the axles than it is to do the install.

Not trying to talk you out of the Lockrights or Powertrax style but they do have their faults. I bought some for my jeep CJ8. I have a set of 35X15.50 Super swamper and they have wore one tire out. I would probably go with a selectable locker. I haven't read many reviews but I like the electrilock by ARB it seems pretty cool. I might go with a ARB air locker but they are expensive. Lockrights also have a loud poping noise when you turn. I have lockers in the front and rear and wish I would have saved for an ARB or some type like that.

The cheap way is to weld the spiders in the rear (no disassembly required) Then spend a bit more on a front locker. Buddies of mine in the club are running welded spiders and 38's with no problem. When welding the gears don't be affraid turn up the heat and make it cherry. I run a spool in the rear and a detroit in the front with no problems. A bit hard on rear tires on the street but it's built for wheeling not cruising main. However when I do cruise main you know when I turn a corner. As my swampers tend to sing.

I have run welded spider gears in the rear and I currently run a Lockright in the rear. I also run a 351W and a AMC20 with one piece mosers. I blew out my rear axle when the weld broke(i didn't do it) which broke a shaft and this was just tooling around nashville. It was great off road but murder on the street. If you took a sharp turn my back two gumbos would bark and hop like a dog. It was not a good setup. If you were going to trailer it forever I would do it but I am happy with my lockright in the rear. It pops and ticks on turns but my motor is loud enough I rarely hear it. I like its performance off road. The only other thing I would do would be a detroit but if you already have the carrier then its a waste of money.

have you checked out the aussie locker? its pretty much a lockrite but you buy it straight from the factory so theyre only like $200.
suposedly theyre a little better than a lockrite but i done have one (when i get the $ i will though) thats just what ive heard

www.aussielocker.com

I will say this. I just installed a lockright in the rear of my 85 and I'm not really pleased with it. It locks up just fine but makes a lot of noise. It also "pops" loudly sometimes when I start off with a slight turn to either side.

That is one of the faults of a rear locker. If you apply power in a corner it will do it's job and lock up on you so be ready for it. With my rear spool it acts the same no matter what I do with the go pedal.

Oops i'm going to get yelled at for that comment. That's the behavior of a non selectable locker. If you don't want the chirping and poping in corners then you'll want an on demand locker. (i.e. ARB or OX.)

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Rockram,

ive got a couple ez lockers... havnt used them yet.. for a d30 amc20 1 piece shafts... anyone have any opinions on those lockers?

Yes, I have a suggestion about the E Z Locker... return them as fast as you can. I blew out my spider gears climbing a few weeks ago. Im out in the middle-east, and its extremely hard to get parts. My buddy had an EZ Locker that he gave me for a temp fix (brand new). We installed it (and I assure you it was installed correctly). Not 50 feet after i started driving it made a bone wrenching popping sound. So i continued driving, and making turns you will always hear your tires chirping. Anyhow, every 100 or so feet, I would get this grenade popping explosion from the locker and the vehicle would jerk to the drivers side. basically what it was doing was locking and unlocking itself. 10 miles later, I couldn't take it anymore. I drove it to my buddys shop this morning, examined the locker... and chucked it. Ordered a Trutrac about a half hour ago. Hopefully it will bring me better success. I was, and still am so mad about that locker, that I would physically make the designers eat it if I could find them.

If you decide to install it, with the case still open after installation, turn your tire forward and backward and watch the way it moves... you can tell its crap before you even try to drive it.

Here is my OX locker plug:

Buy an OX locker and break something else other than your differential.

Zane; Were all your tires the same size and inflation? I have a buddy that had (Sold the Jeep) an E Z Locker in his Jeep with no problems. But yes they do alot of popping but usally in cornering.

quote:

Originally posted by BIGSTACK:
ive got a couple ez lockers... havnt used them yet.. for a d30 amc20 1 piece shafts... anyone have any opinions on those lockers?

I have run the Detroit E-Z Lockers in my CJ-5 with 1 piece rear axles and 33's since 1999, a little noisy, yes, but it's a CJ,not a luxury suv, learn to enjoy the surprised looks people have when the tires bark as you make sharp turns,,I kinda think it's cool.

I have had NO problems with durability or performance with them,,front or rear. If set up correctly, there should be no issues. I installed mine at the same time the R&P gears were changed, so I was able to make sure that all other possible problems were addressed, such as pinion depth and backlash. Installing this type of locker in a worn or badly set up carrier/gear set will cause problems.

Just my 2 cents.